Sunday, 12 October 2014

Two weeks in Peru - double blog posting

Since I missed an entry while I was sick, I decided to write a #lateblog #doubleblog and post them both here together. The first blog goes from the Amazon through Cusco, and the last one takes us from Cusco, through Machu Picchu and back to Lima. Spoiler alert: Machu Picchu

Blog One
In Sickness and in Health

The end of the last entry ended with us on our way to Puerto Maldonado (or as Americans probably call it, Porto Marinara) and the Peruvian Amazon. The Amazon was pretty incredible, although not the most wildly fantastic thing I have seen. Upon arrival it was a wicked-hot 35+ degrees, which was pretty fantastic. I packed a lot of short sleeved weather, so this was exactly what I was hoping for. However, looking back, it was clear that on the first day in the amazon I was already starting to get sick, so everything I did there is a little tainted with me being tired and wanting naps. And taking naps. The cabin we stayed in did not have A/C or a fan, so the only time you weren’t sweating was the first fifteen seconds after you got out of the shower, or between 7-7:30 AM. The rest of the time… hello sweatsville. We were living in a three person potpourri hut.
The lodge we stayed in was called Corto Maltes. Other than the mentioned lack of a fan in the room, it was a realy nice lodge. Three meals a day were prepared, and was really quite good. Our guide’s name was Jose, and he was a pretty great guy. He kept making fun of me for sleeping all the time, but whatever.

We were in the Amazon for three days; here are the highlights:
-          Jungle tour; many trees, plants and animals therein
-          The Amazon is the home of most of the plants ued in all our every-day, and not every-day drugs. Such as Coca and the plant used in Viagra. Also, many natural plants and animals can be used as remedies; our guide took some ants and rubbed them on his skin – natural bug repellent.
-          Night time boat tour on the Madre de Dios river (tributary for the Amazon River); saw some Cayman’s. I slept on the boat
-          Canoe tour to a small Amazon lake, where we saw some more Cayman’s and some birds. Tweet.
-          Monkey Island; saw some sweet monkeys but didn’t get to feed them ourselves.
A final highlight was the daily 5 PM football game that all the staff play. Jory and I showed up on the second and third day’s and got to run around wit the staff and pretend like either of us have plated soccer in ten years. We are both pretty sporty, so weren’t actually the worst on the field. They play a mix of a man game, a zone game, and a ‘run around with no position’ game. We fit right in. It was great.

Friday morning we left Corto Maltes and Puerto Maldonado and flew to Cusco. I was starting to feel better, and was hopeful I would be able to take part in the activities we had planned. These included a Cusco city bus tour, and a Sacred Valley tour. Instead, I slept through both. I went to the front desk of our hotel to ask about a clinic, but they called a doctor to come for a house call instead. After waiting an hour, a Hot Peruvian Doctor came to check me out; while I did trust her diagnosis that it was a virus and would pass through in a few days, I was a little wary because she didn’t bring a thermometer with her. She asked me if I had one…which I did not. I didn’t even bring enough socks for two weeks, did she really expect me o have a thermometer? But, did I mention she was a hot, young, Peruvian doctor? Anyway, Jory and Amanda went on the city tour on Saturday, which they got excessively rained on, and on Sunday Jory went on the Sacred Valley tour. He said it was nice; I watched a lot of CSI (the only English channel I could find).

Anyway, the idea was to rest up enough to be better to go on the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, which was really the climax of our trip, and which started on Monday. And, as Sunday evening came around, I realized that I still wasn’t feeling great and hadn’t eaten yet, so decided to abandon the trek and made other plans to meet them on Thursday after the trek, in Aguas Calientes. Small win: on Monday I ate food for the first time in over two full days! Yay me! It was an extended Yom Kippur in Peru. So I remained in Cusco on my own while Amanda and Spanish Jorge went off trekking. I was sad that I was missing out, a little jelly that they were doing this amazing adventure without me, and also quite nervous that I wasn’t really getting better. Up to this point there was a few times when I thought I was feeling better, then it got worse, then I was feeling better again, and then I wasn’t… I actually looked into changing my flights to come home early but in the end I decided to wait it out and if I didn’t get better, I would just be sick until I got home.

Thankfully that wasn’t the case, and after eating some rice and soup on Monday I went out for an entire day on Tuesday.

On Tuesday I hiked up to El Christo Blanco, the White Christ, which overlooks Cusco. The climb itself was not that hard, and you end up with a great view of the town of Cusco and the whole surrounding valley. On Wednesday I headed from Cusco to Aguas Calientes where team Weinstein-Cohen 2014 would reunite on Thursday.

Blog two:
Aguas Calientes (Hot Water), Machu Picchu, and Lima

I arrived in AC on Wednesday at 1 PM. Nothing else happened that day. Picture a small touristy town where, despite the basis of the towns industry is tourism, not many people there speak English. The stores go like this: restaurant, restaurant, massage, restaurant, massage, buy things, restaurant. All the restaurants serve the same food, and none of the massages come with an ‘Inca finish.’

On Thursday morning I left my hostel and climbed to the top of a mountain called Putu Cusi; on one side it overlooks the town of Aguas Calientes, and on the other side gives a full view of Machu Picchu. On my way up I thought I was going to die, and on my way down I almost did.
Picture this: you’re walking up some stairs on a mountain, NBD. About fifteen minutes in you get to a roughly six foot wooden ladder that goes up a sharp rock face, but is completely broken and rotten. Ok fine, it’s not so long, you can climb around and over and whatnot. But then! Not even ten minutes later you get to another wooden ladder going up an even steeper incline that goes up, ooooh roughly 200 feet straight! After just climbing over a rotted out wooden ladder, now you need to put your Peruvian faith in these untreated wooden rungs, hoping they aren’t going to fall apart as you go up, or when you come back down. I assume other people have done it and not died, so up I went! On the way back down, one of the rungs was loose and there was that split second where you say to yourself, welp, this is it then. See ya!  Thankfully I didn’t die, I made it to the top and back, and I have some incredible pictures from the top of Putu Cusi of the town of AC and of Machu Picchu from the other side of the valley.

Amanda and Jory arrived back at our hostel before me so when I got back, sweaty and smelling like I hadn’t showered in days (I hadn’t), my spirits were uplifted when we were reunited. They, obviously, had an incredible time on the trek, but you will need to read their blogs to see the highlights. They don’t have blogs, so just imagine they do and it was fun. Side note: The Mexican food in Cusco, while not truly authentic, is pretty tastey. The trick in AC is to ask for a discount at every restaurant, and they all give you the same deal on basically the same food. Jory tried a hamburger once, and that was a sad mistake. Shoulda kept to ‘Mexican.’

Friday morning the whole trek team (which I was meant to be on) met together at 4:30 AM to begin our walk to Machu Picchu. The first 1.7 KM’s is the equivalent of the Grouse Grind, only you start at 2000 M elevation, instead of ~100 M. It is a half hour walk to the base, and then rough 45 minutes up. That hike of stairs takes you up to Machu Picchu, where you can see the sun rise with only the few hundred other people, before the busloads of tourists arrive later in the day.  
We had a bit of a walking tour, and then we headed over to climb up Wayana Picchu. This climb was quite a bit steeper, closer to the edge, and went quite a bit higher than just Machu Picchu, and led up to an Inca temple on the Northern side of the site. Again, more beautiful views of everything around you, and makes you wonder how the people who created these sites managed to build such intricate and awesome buildings so incredibly high up. The vista was incredible, and I took a full 360 degree panorama shot of the entire valley.

When we got back down to Machu Picchu the three of us took some time on a grassy area to stretch a bit, relax and unwind. I saw some tourists taking pictures so offered to take them together; I know, im a mensch. They wanted to do those stupid jumpy pictures, which as you can tell I am not a fan of, but fuck they aren’t my memories, do whatever you want. After taking a few of them, a ‘man in red’ (Machu Picchu guard) ran over and yelled at us and said ‘No jumping pictures!!’ Seriously. You aren’t allowed to take jumping pictures on Machu Picchu. Well, this isn’t America ladies, fuck you and your jumpy freedom. Anyway, he went through all their cameras and made them delete them all… hilarious.

We got back down from MP a aroun noon; my train left at 7 PM and theirs left at 9:30. We were all sweaty, smelly, and tired. So we found a dumpy hostel that rented us a room for the afternoon. It smelled like mold and unwashed sheets, but we were all exhausted and they had towels and toilet paper. We crashed with the lights on, and showered when we woke up. It was a great way to end to an incredible journey of a day.

We got back to our hostel in Cusco and left for Lima the next morning. On Saturday back in Lima we went for dinner with four girls Amanda and Jorge met on the trek; I ordered a Peruvian dish which was a mistake. Bifsteak with a fried egg, fried banana and beans. I cant get the taste out of my mouth…

And then on Sunday we had a full day to kill; we wandered around some markets where I bought a blanket (along with to chocolate bars, the only things I bought to bring home). A+J were sore from the trek still, so they went to a movie. I walked along the beach for a few hours, and climbed up some stairs from the beach back to the main level of town (the beach area is much lower down). But since the stairs are still under construction, I ended up at the top surrounded by construction fences that I had to climb under. Good times in Lima!


Thanks for reading, will let you know when my next adventure comes about. 

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